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Our New Rye Berries
THESE ARE THE MUCH OLDER RYE BERRY JARS. PLEASE ADAPT INSTRUCTIONS TO FIT OUR CURRENT RYE BERRY JAR MODEL CURRENTLY IN STOCK. THANK YOU!






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All of our sterilized Rye berry jars now come with the option of a medical self-healing injector site, and all jars come with 0.22 double layer micron filter disk to breathe through, covering 3 holes. We have added this new feature to our quart jars at only an additional $5.00 per 2 injection sites or 12 for $25.


If you don't get the jars with the injector site, there will be only one hole to cover once you inject with your spore syringe. Just place a piece of tape over the middle innoculation hole to cover the puncture in the micron filters. Otherwise, with the injector site, simply wipe the injector site with 91% alcohol, as well as your syringe needle, and then inject as much solution as you want to use for your project. The more solution you use, the faster the rye berries will colonize. You want to inject at least 5 ccs of spore solution into the berries in the quart jar. It is possible to inject too much solution in a jar though. You do not want to over saturate your berries with solution, because they might get too wet and will colonize poorly. You may use up to 20ccs in 1 quart with all 3 breathing holes uncovered for unimaginable colonization speeds.

Once you inject, then you must shake the jar very well moving horizontally in a circle manner to actually rotate the berries inside the jar and mix them around to distribute the spores evenly into the berries. That way you get even colonization as well as a faster mycelium take over. DO NOT SHAKE THE JAR AGAIN! No matter what you've read elsewhere.


You should begin to see signs of mycelium within 3 days of incubation in complete darkness. You can cover your Rye berry jars with aluminum foil all around the glass to provide the darkest environment as possible.


It is important not to disturb your rye berries for about 3-4 days. Just try to forget about them for a few days. Then, at the end of the 3rd or the 4th day. Peek and see that everything is still going as planned. You should already begin to see some thin frosty white fluffy stuff growing on your rye berries. If so, good. If not, then give it another couple of days. However, if you begin to see any other kinds/color molds growing on the berries, then discard that jar immediately.


Once they are compltely colonized, which can take anywhere from 5 days to 3 weeks, then the rye berries are ready to be cased. The mycelium must look strong and thick. The first week, the mycelium will look weak and thin, but it should strengthen as it grows into the rye berries.


HOLES �
The jars come with all 3 holes taped up, with 2 micron filters, one on top of the other, for the cleanest filtration. After inoculation, you may choose to leave the tape over the holes. Remove all 3 holes, leaving all 3 open for the fastest colonization possible. This is good for a jar with over 10cc�s and up to 20cc�s of solution/liquid. Leave one hole open for a jar with 5cc�s or less. It is recommended to use at least 5cc�s, but it is possible to use less. During colonization, the jars should be kept in an ambient temperature of about 80-82�.
It is NOT recommended to store them, either before inoculation or after full colonization. However, to prevent the berries from drying out after colonization is complete and if you plan to store them, you may place a clean piece of tape over however many holes you choose, up to even only � of 1 hole open for the least amount of air. That will give you a couple of weeks time until you must use them. During this time, they should be in a cool, dark place until use.



You will want to have a growing container ready and some casing soil (pasteurized or sterilized). Or just plain treated vermiculite (h2o2) or sterilized. Disposable tin foil containers work great, but you can also use something like a rubbermaid container. Open the jar lid and hit the jar to attempt to get the rye berries out of the jar and into the grow container. You must break up the rye berries well. Due to the strong mycelium knots you probably will not be able to get the berries out of the jar by just banging the jar. Use a clean long knife to cut the rye berries long-wise into 4 slices/sections cutting all the way down and upwards so that the knife cuts through to the jar on all sides.To remove, stab a section of rye berries with the knife deeply enough so that the section comes out when you pull on it. Break up the mycelium into nickel to quarter sized balls gently using gloves (gloves provided with quarts) and spread the rye evenly across the bottom of the container. Now sprinkle some casing soil on top of the rye berries. About 1/4 inch thick. You can do a slightly thicker casing layer, but it is not recommended as the mycelium takes too long to colonize through it, and there are also bigger chances of a contaminant to take foothold of the casing layer. You may also use a bottom layer of casing soil as well (1/2 inch) then the rye and then the top casing layer. You may notice faster results if you mix the berries into your compost or dung and then use a thin layer of casing soil on top of your mix. All this must be done in as clean a work area as possible the use of a flow hood is recommended.


Cover the container with aluminum foil or saran wrap and place in a dark warm place to allow the top casing layer to colonize. (in the mid 70s - 80)


After you see the very first mycelium come through the top, you should cover it back up with a tiny bit of casing soil, to ensure an even pin-set, unless it's coming up evenly everywhere. It should be uncovered and fruited when it is about 2/3 of the way colonized, that way you don't begin to get overlay in some places, which is mycelium that grows on top of each other.
If you are using a tin foil container, then you must place it in a fruiting chamber with mosit perlite on the bottom. Casings require less humidity than cakes do, so watch out. 85% humidity is good for casings. Also air out very frequently, and never allow the casing soil layer to dry up. If you must mist, mist from far away as fine mist as possible. Give plenty of indirect light, and you should have pins soon.

Casings also require more patience than cakes do, as it is a longer process. Do not get impatient and over disturb it. It is mostly a waiting game.


If you need more information about casings you can E-MAIL US. We will be working on a detailed pictured CASING INFO page soon.




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COLONIZATION AFTER ONLY 3-7 DAYS (depending on strain or species).




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COLONIZATION AFTER 1 - 2 WEEKS (depending on strain or species)













SPAWNING WITH RYE BERRIES- INFO



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